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Wine Notebook, Part 38 (March 1, 2008)
by the Wine Baron
Once in a
blue moon, the family goes out to celebrate. Heck, this
was a good cause, a birthday; and those pesky reminders
of the aging process are only acknowledged once in a
blue moon in the Baron's house. We wanted a nice
upscale restaurant not too far from home. Birthday girl
chose Spencer's
at the Waterfront, on the shores of Lake Ontario in
downtown Burlington, Ontario. The restaurant is in a new
building that was designed and fitted to be a
multi-role destination. Visitors are encouraged to
experience the pleasant surroundings. Spencer's 125 seat patio overlooks
the Lake and a summer pond that doubles as an ice-skating rink
during Ontario's 11 months of Winter (OK, it may be a
tad shorter than that, but residual shivers surely
extend that long). The complex is in the middle of a park
and play area for families.
This fine
establishment is run by the Ciancone family. They're also owners
of Ancaster Old Mill. Executive Chef Chris Haworth
applies his
mastery in the kitchen. He perfected his metier in
England under Michelin starred mentorship. His
continental experience transports world-class talent to his role at
Spencer's, as he oversees his philosophy of
"Think
global - cook, eat and drink local."
They support
what they preach, staff also work at a restaurant-owned
farm, growing produce that finds its way to the table.
Partnerships with local suppliers of natural meats and
greens ensure local quality and terroir.
The meals
were sumptuous, delicious and visually appealing. Most
of the group ordered steak. Of the New York Sirloin, Rib
Eye and Tenderloin, I recommend the latter two as being
the best. The other pleaser was the Leg of Lamb. The
meat fell off the bone. Very nice seasonings. Some of us
liked the baked potatoes with our steak, but I would say
the thin cut fries were the hit in the spud department.
Desserts were a sweeeeeeet ending to the evening.
Wine: Chateau des Jaubertes 2004, Graves AOC -
This was
the first time any of us enjoyed this Bordeaux in a
restaurant. Normally we draw it from our wine cellar. The
wine was great with the steaks and mind-boggling-gorgeous with the Lamb. It's dark ruby colour, it's floral bouquet
- ah yes, violets with fruity elements of blueberry and
blackcurrant! A whisper of leather. Flavours enter the
mouth slowly and with a roundness. The dark red fruity
notes dominate the light oak treatment. Tannins are
supple and ample. A long and fruity finish. The wine was
a perfect partner for the evening's dishes and
contributed aristocracy to the experience.
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