Wine Notebook, Part 41 (April 15, 2008)
by the Wine Baron
The Wine
and Leisure tasting panel descended upon the Austrian
Annual Wine Trade Fair in Toronto today. Held at
Rosehill, the event featured wines from dozens of
Austrian wineries. The event was packed with invited
trade guests. As expected, there were no substandard
wines among the entire collection and we were very
impressed with at least 10 of the wineries. It was fun,
too, to rub shoulders with esteemed colleagues like Tony
Aspler, who was very gracious to some of the younger
crowd who sought his advice and opinions. Kudos to Tony.
He's a class act. John Szabo had his enormously
refined nose in a glass of Riesling as I breezed by. He
takes his wines seriously, that's part of why he's a
Master Sommelier. Other wine royalty included
Margaret Swain, Igor (Master of Wine), and Jamie
Drummond, sommelier at JK Wine Bar.
Some of
the finest wine collections were by Stadlmann, Nigl,
Stadt Krems, Angerer Kurt, Winzer Krems, Laurenz Five,
Dürnberg and Skoff. It was good to see Skoff's sales and
marketing manager, Wolfgang Krinninger, who really knows
his stuff... So, let's focus a bit on these last
two wineries, whose products were especially impressive.
Dürnberg is from the Weinviertel in
Austria. Winemaker Christoph Kőrner produces lively and
elegant wines that are bursting with bouquet and flavor.
I tried the Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Select Klassik,
the Chardonnay Klassik, and the Grüner Veltliner
Steinwein Klassik. They were excellent, with special
mention deserved by the Pinot Blanc. Skoff,
from Südsteiermark (South Styria), is reaching legendary
status due to its simply stunning Sauvignon Blancs. From
their cleverly named Skoffignon to their Sauvignon Blanc
Klassik, the lofty Sauvignon Blanc Hochsulz, and the
Sauvignon Blanc Obegg Reserve, you feel like you're
climbing the stairway to heaven. Each wine in the flight
gets better and better until you reach perfection at the
top.
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