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Wine Notebook, Part 54 (December 11 to 14, 2008)    by the Wine Baron    |   Direct to Guinness Storehouse

Here we are, hopping on a plane for a quick trip to Ireland. We're attending an annual editors' conference in Belfast. The Buffalo / Chicago / Dublin flights go by quickly and soon we are on bus from Dublin airport, driving down the left lane to that city in the North that gave us the Titanic.

It's not the best time of year for this, but professional reasons dictate this to be the best time for the meeting. Nevertheless, our 2 hour journey takes us through the delightful little city of Newry, the Mourne Mountains, Hillsborough, and finally downtown Belfast.

It is Thursday afternoon - we get settled in at the Express by Holiday in on University. I stop in a couple of local pubs to see what they're like, but don't stay for a pint. There'll be enough of that tonight. I like the feel of Belfast. It is a pleasant place.

It's getting later. Time to meet the other arriving editors at basement of The Belfast Empire Music Hall. The fish and chips are excellent. Best thick cut fries I have ever had. I order Bass Pale Ale to go with the meal. The Rab McCullough Band hit the stage with some remarkable Blues - energetic and authentic.


Enjoying The Belfast Empire Music Hall
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Friday is taken up with meetings. But the evening brings a pleasant outing to meet the Lord Mayor of Belfast. The group of us is warmly greeted by the Right Honourable Tom Hartley. His comments are down-to-earth and witty.  We have a good time and learn more about the charming city of Belfast.

Later, we repair off to another pub in the middle of Belfast's downtown shopping district. A classic rock band erupts with harmonious enthusiasm. The group of editors make sure there's plenty of ale flowing.


Editor of Tallinn IYP, Lord Mayor of Belfast, Wine Baroness
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The view from the Parliament building
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Saturday morning. Time to take a bus tour of Belfast. The tour takes us through downtown, the ship-building area, East Belfast, and West Belfast. Downtown is full of upscale shopping, amenities and historic buildings. East Belfast is a beautiful residential area and the site of the Parliament buildings. West Belfast is the location of the former political unrest. Today it is firmly at peace. The ideological differences of opinion remain, but the area is safe.

Belfast City Hall and Christmas market
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Saturday evening we search out a place to eat and then a proper pub in Dublin's Temple Bar. For dinner, we decide on The Bull and Castle, near Nathanael's hotel, the Christchurch Hall Apartments. His residence is perfectly located amidst the main attractions. Another place we peeked in on was Jury's Inn. It would have also been a good choice. The Bull and Castle is a satisfying eatery. Downstairs is fine dining, upstairs is the Beer Hall, that's where we settled in. We had Irish Stew, Steak on a Bun, Pear Cider and Castle Red Ale. Excellent quality fare and beverages.

We look around Temple Bar and enjoy the celebrations going on. We like the look and feel of Oliver St. John Gogarty Bar. There are several pub areas within the whole historic complex. It's very nice here. Very Irish. Gogarty's owner, Martin Keane, is a staunch supporter of traditional Irish music. We enjoyed the performance by Gogarty's house band, with fiddle by Noreen Leech and banjo by Stevey Leech.


Bull & Castle, Dublin
 

Gogarty's, Dublin

Guinness Storehouse

At the top of the Guinness Storehouse
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Guinness Storehouse. The highlight of our Dublin visit! This is the location of the brewery tour, probably the very best in the world. This is the home of the world's most famous stout.

The tour begins on the bottom level of a high 7 storey building. The centre of the building is hollowed out with glass edges that make it look like a pint. The self-guided tour gradually ascends through each level as you learn the story of Arthur Guinness and his 249 year old beer operations. We learned that Guinness is naturally brewed from just 4 ingredients. Water is drawn from the nearby Mountains, not from the River as some people think. The beer is shipped all over Europe in tankers. For the North American market, it is reduced to an essence and finished in a Canadian brewery.

As we finish the tour, we find ourselves on top of the Pint. It's the Guinness pub at the top. Our hostess pours the perfect pint. 45 degree angle from the tap, until 3/4 full. Let stand 2 minutes. Then top it up. It is served chilled. It is delicious!

Looking out over Dublin, you can see city landmarks in all directions. A fine ending to our brief visit to Ireland. We'll be back! We want to see Galway next time. And we want to spend more time in the Mourne Mountains, visit the Giant's Causeway, and take a ferry from Belfast to Scotland. Perhaps one Spring. Soon...

Follow up:

We tasted Guinness in Toronto recently at Allen's Restaurant on the Danforth.  Our question was, is it as good in Canada?  Find out here.


View from the top
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Links ... The Belfast Empire
  The Bull & Castle, Dublin
  Gogarty's Pub, Dublin
  Guinness Storehouse  |  How Guinness is made
  Belfast In Your Pocket  |  Dublin In Your Pocket
   

 

 posted by: Wine Baron @ 4:30 pm 2 comments  

 
BLOG Comment 1

John said:

The Guinness tour was fabulous. I learned a lot about beer and have new respect for this brew. I had always thought they used water from the river that flows through Dublin (what is it called again?  I am pleased to find out it is from the Mountains.

Nice photos in the Blog.

John

 
BLOG Comment 2

Hanna said:

The River Liffey flows through Dublin. I am glad Guinness uses Mountain water!

When I visited the city, I had renewed interest in reading more literature by the famous authors for whom the city is known.

Hanna




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